TRAVELLING BACHS |
I had wanted to do this for a very long time and in my new-found independent phase I decided that I wanted to do it on my own. Far from the original purpose of a religious pilgrimage to visit the shrine of the apostle St James the Great, my aim was to have a nice outdoor experience in the North of Spain, a physical challenge and to learn to get by with the basics while enjoying of the wonderful Spanish cuisine I miss so much. In a way, it was "an atittude of search" as they require for you to obtain the certificate once you finish and that I will explain below. Do you want to know how did it go for me? Do you want to learn more about it because maybe you fancy doing it yourself? Read my story to find out where I went wrong and the kind of stuff you need to take with you. Choosing the route & researchThere are plenty of routes to get to Santiago de Compostela, but I did not count with a whole year's holiday to take in at once, so I was happy to do the last five days of the French Way, the most popular and perhaps most habilitated of them all. You can find more information in English here and here. There are also decent phone apps that guide you and they are quite helpful when you find yourself at a crossroads. I decided to start from Sarria, a little over 100km from Santiago, which is the minimum you need to walk to get the pilgrim's certificate or the Compostela. At your arrival to Santiago, the Pilgrim's Reception Office will issue you with one only if you present your Credencial (click to find out how to get one), which is a sort of a passport that proves that you have done it walking (it can be done horseback or ciclying, but it is 200km minimum). In order to do so, you will need at least two stamps everyday with the date on that Credencial (very important). There are plenty of places you can get them: albergues (inns, but nobody seems to translate this word), bars, little shops, churches and so on. This will become not only your evidence to get the certificate, but a unique footprint of your journey that will make you remember and cherish beautiful memories from this trip. Planning the tripTo get to Sarria I flought from Cardiff to Madrid with Iberia Express and then a train from Chamartin, one of the train stations in Madrid, that takes you straight to Sarria (about 6 hours). I am not a go-with-the-flow person so I needed to have my whole trip pre-booked and not to worry if I did not have a place to sleep one day. There are several kinds of accomodation depending on your budget:
It helped a lot watching videos on Youtube about people that had already done it. Thanks to that I made a list of stuff I needed to pack. If you want to know what to take, scroll down to Conclusions. I changed my mind when I finished about some things. Once I had everything sorted, I thought I needed to prep somehow. I consider myself a fit person and I exercise regularly, but I am not used to walking an average of 20km per day, five consecutive days. I went on a quick trek several days and I got to wear the trekking shoes I bought. However, was that enough? Keep reading and you will find out. Day 0: arrival to SarriaAlbergue San Lázaro I arrived to Sarria and found the albergue quite easily, just 6 minutes walking from the train station (what would we do without you, Google Maps). This clean and charming albergue provides disposable pillow case and bed sheets. I was lucky to be put into the room of three, because there was a massive room with loads of bunk beds (this is the most common in albergues) with a noisy school trip. There is a cheap and popular supermarket chain, Mercadona, where you can replenish of food if you need to. I bought some nuts mix, since it is advised in case you get hungry, and dinner for that night. I ended up having dinner al fresco while having such a nice conversation about what is going on in the world with the owner and the reasons why I left my homeland. I never realise how much I miss Spain until I come back. Budget for Day 0
Day 1: Sarria - Portomarín (22.05km)6 a.m., I had wrapped tape around my ankles and vaseline was well spread on my feet before I put my socks on; that is how I started my day. You need to prevent blisters before it is too late. My first day of using the walking poles was like a first kiss, you do not know how to put your mouth but in the end it all fits well. It supports and helps your balance and backpack weight, both uphill and downhill. Some people do not use them but I recommend them 100%. I wore my waterproof windbreaker for the first 10 minutes and then I had to take it off because it was too hot. Take off the backpack that was already tied and comfy, try to find space inside, put it back, such a chore. There is a greeting people say wishing you a good journey: "Buen Camino". Foreigners love to say it to show off they know two Spanish words. People will look at you expecting to reply the same, if not, you are rude. It is nice in the beginning, but when you pass the same person 5 times during the day or you pass a big group of people, it becomes an annoying joke. I ended up hating it, because I am that antisocial, but you can see the joy of the pilgrims saying it. A quite inclined downhill seemed to be the sign I was approaching Portomarin. There was an old man that was zig-zagging and I thought it unnecessary, but once I tried it I realised it works. It takes the effort put on your knees that would bring issues later. I would be the one doing it from then on and people thinking I am stupid. The first day seemed pretty easy and I got to Portomarin at 11 a.m. I tried not to check the time or distance walked because I thought it would be much worse, but it was quite early and I was already there. I only stopped for a quick breakfast next to a fountain and that was all. I figured I went quite fast, since I do not like when people pass me. I also did not want to walk with the heat of midday but it was actually cloudy and the temperature was ideal. I needed to take it easy and leave my competitive instinct for some other time. Although it still bugs me that twig-legged old woman that passed me like a rocket and I never saw again. I remember! Stop it, Fran. Arriving that early to Portomarin, I explored this small town and then decided I needed a big calamari baguette. I had it next to the San Xoán church, moved piece by piece when the dam was built and the whole town had to relocate. Albergue Aqua Portomarín This was more like a hostel than an albergue. The main room had four bunk beds and the place was very clean and peaceful. They gave me fabric sheets and a blanket. I handwashed my clothes and hung them out in the sun so that they would dry for the next day and I had a shower. There even was a hair drier, God bless. After showing off to all my contacts I had not gotten any blisters, I noticed my big toe nails were turning blue. At this point I panicked, for I had a toe injury before and they happen in the silliest way. The left one was worse and swollen, but the right one only had a bruise spot. I could move it with difficulty so I went to a pharmacy with my dramatic emergency. They told me I got blisters under my toe nails because they hit the tip of the shoe when I walk. How could that be possible if I had two sizes bigger! Apparently my big toe is longer than usual and my nails were not very short (but I promise that short enough, don't picture those disgusting hobo nails cause I ain't). They gave me silicon cases for my toes and I had to wear them to cushion those hits. It would get better and reabsorb or the nail would end up coming off. Great. At night I trimmed my toe nails and (warning: gritty details) and it started to bleed non-stop. It was draining and it relieved the pressure. I opened my mini first aid kit and did what I could with the bare minimum I had, but thanks to my newfound American lady friends they gave me desinfectant as well. They told me they learned about el Camino because they watched this emotional film called The Way about a father that does el Camino for a recently deceased son, and they wanted to try the experience themselves. We had quite a nice chat and I also met Gema, she was travelling alone like me. They told me about a man that had died from dehydration on a day it was a heat wave, just days before I started. He was of my age, so not old, and it was something to think about. Hydration is not a joke and he did not rest because he was close to the day goal. I thought that because we were all going to the same place I would see them on the following days. I went to bed struggling with this news and thinking about my toe. Would I have to come back home and feel the humiliation of not finishing it? Budget for Day 1
Day 2: Portomarín - Palas de Rei (24.67km)Preparation in the mornings was long. My toe was still bleeding but I covered it with dressings and the silicon cases. Out of sight, out of mind. Let's go! No cold for northern men, no coat needed in the morning (so that I did not have to take it off later). I got up later than the previous day, seeing that I arrived early enough, and there was a massive crowd you could not miss walking along. No hesitation on crossroads. Just follow the flock. Personally, I did not like big groups or loud people, because they break nature's peace, but apart from that, just do your own thing and do not mind what others do. My plan for the second day was more chill. I stopped after 8km and had a proper breakfast like the ones that builders have, and it was heaven. Buying stuff at the supermarket and carrying it was not my thing. I still had the nuts mix I got the first day and not much space in my bag. I felt my toe throbbing with each step but the poles helped to divert the weight. I was dreading taking off the socks and seeing the mess. The last few kilometers were never ending and I had to stop several times. Being later than the previous day, the sun was out and it was boiling. I was drinking water, since I did not want to end up like the poor guy that had died, and finally got to Palas de Rei at 2 p.m. I did not plan it well the first two days. I had not checked the distance to do and made the wrong decisions. I would work that out for the upcoming days. When I got to the albergue I had a revitalising shower and when I finished I realised I had not taken my towel. Well done, Fran. I had to use my dirty top to pat me dry, yikes. My toes were... slightly better? Still oozing, but not worse. There was hope after all. For all of you, vegetarians and vegans, Galicia and, in general, Spain, is not ready for you yet. It was difficult to find meatless options, not impossible, though. I cannot drink milk, and in a region where milk cattle is how they make a living, alternative milks are something they have not heard of. After asking in several places to have a coffee with soy milk, I managed to find lactose-free milk at my albergue's cafeteria, but if it smells like cow, I do not trust it. Luckily enough, it agreed with me. The rest of the day was uneventful and chill. I started to feel my legs achy, but it was not the end of the world. Albergue Zendoira The capsule-bunk beds system won me. You had your own shelf, locker, electric plug and a curtain for privacy. Lucky me, I got the annoying happy family around, with the bed-shaking snoring parents and the woke grown-up daughter that dared to tell me what to do with my things and even took my shoes to tell me to put them outside, I did not know about this, but I did not like the manners either. I stared at her, marking my territory, and I think she got me. They were this kind of cheap-holidays family, eating from supermarket food. I guess it is a respectable choice if you are walking from France or tight-fisted. My aim was enjoying Spain and its affordable but delicious served food. The albergue gave me disposable sheets blankets were available (I snatched one before I got none left). I washed my clothes for the day and hung them out on the lines they had. Although they did not have pegs, I had brought some from home (good advice I followed). The place was slightly out of the way, which pissed me off when I arrived all sweaty and tired, but not too bad. This is where people who wing it win. They could stay at the first albergue they found on the way. Budget for Day 2
Day 3: Palas de Rei - Arzúa (28.13km)The way is tricky. Right after leaving Palas de Rei, it takes you up and then down to the same road. I should have followed that man ahead of me, but I am hesitant to trust others. That day was the first (and last) that I needed the head torch. Although when I turned it on the batteries ran off, and they were new. Lucky Fran. Planning in advanced, unlike previous days, I knew this was going to be a long one and I left at 6 a.m. Knowing that my toes were better, I sped up a bit and one hour and half after I had done 10km, so I stopped to drink some water and eat some nuts as a pre-breakfast, since I never had it at the albergue. More than anything, to get rid of some weight and space (damn nuts). The temperature was fabulous. Nothing like getting up early to make the best of your day. Halfway through I bumped into Andrés and Belén, a lovely couple that took a picture of myself (selfies are not enough) and then we kind of carried on together. We got to the next town, Melide, and they told me it was typical to eat octopus there. Although it was breakfast time, I tried it and, indeed, it was really nice. My breakfast was hearty as well. When I am hungry I cannot control myself. After that, we separated ways, but ended up together again later on, which was very helpful to face the last bit, with a tough and long climb. Sometimes it feels longer if you are just thinking how much is left, instead of just chatting and enjoying yourself. In the afternoon we found out that we took a turn at an intersection and although we were on the right track, the complementary way was not so bad. Study your routes, people. This was the hardest day for me. Hours later, my legs started to get quite stiff. It was a funny zombie-walk every time I stood up. Albergue da Fonte Right on the camino, I got a room of just one bunk bed and I thought it would be a peaceful night until an American school trip invaded the albergue (Oh my God, this is amazing!). They occupied the place as if there was nobody else. When told to keep it quiet, the person in charge asked if we did not have earplugs. I had, indeed, and a sleeping mask, and without them I would not have been able to sleep any of the days, but even though, they were too loud. Fortunately, they went quiet at night. The albergue provided fabric sheets (a luxury), blankets and they also had hair dryer, so I washed my hair. Budget for Day 3
Day 4: Arzúa - Pedrouzo (19.45km)After the previous two days, everything went downhill from here, not literally. It was the first day that it rained so I used my light-weight poncho... No wonder, it was a posh bin bag. It fit the purpose, although the hood kept blowing away. It was really hot after a while, since it does not transpire, and I took it off as soon as I could. I only stopped halfway through to have breakfast. The sun hid behind the clouds all day, so in comparison with other days, this one was a piece of cake. In the afternoon my knee started to get sore and warm. I got some ibuprofen and I took a nice rest for the rest of the day after hanging out with Andrés and Belén, because I felt like a old lady trying to get up and sitting down. I also got a blister on my ring finger due to the walking poles, but nothing major. Albergue Porta de Santiago The albergue I originally thought it was public, since it was the only one I could not book in advanced, turned out to be private, but they saved some beds for people who came from further away. I got there at 12 and checked in, but at 1p.m. they were turning people away, although in the end there were a few empty beds, to my benefit, the one next to me. Their policies, their business. They gave me disposable sheets and a blanket. The place had this zen music on that was very relaxing and people were very respectful, at least on the ground floor, which was a massive space full of bunk beds. I had one of those blond moments we all have sometimes, and I hung my clothes out on a very cloudy day, so they got soaked with rain while I was having lunch. I put them under a shelter after but it was too late. They went into a bag, for the option of hanging them on my backpack was not possible the next day, forecasted to rain again. Budget for Day 4
Day 5: Pedrouzo - Santiago de Compostela (19.28km)It was not very clear where to start in the morning, but being Pedrouzo the junction of three different routes, the amount of people heading for their last day of walking was noticeable. You only had to follow the crowd. The spirits were high knowing the end was near, and even if it rained more than the day before, I stopped for breakfast at its worst and job done. Ibuprofen time. My legs, bum and knee were aching but I had to carry on. The journey was like the previous but maybe with some more ups and downs. In no time I was already in the Santiago outskirts. I entered to Praza do Obradoiro marching to the sound of bagpipes (Celtic traditions made their mark in the north of Spain) and I missed the cathedral completely, for it is covered head to toe while being restored, and I made line at the wrong queue, the one to go inside to assist mass (I could not, I would catch fire). Thankfully, before they expelled me for being a sodomite, I asked where the Pilgrim's Reception Office was and they sent me on the right path. Plus, I was carrying my backpack and they are not allowed in the cathedral. Once at the office, the line was long and slow, but I finally got my Compostela, I think. They did not ask me for the reason why I did it. I only completed a form that the girl did not even look while she was writing my name in "latin": Franciscum. I do not think she got the joke, but I did. It was not all time wasted, since I met a guy who happened to be at my albergue and we spent the rest of the day hanging out. The nuts mix, about to grow legs and escape, arrived to Santiago as I expected and would eventually made its way on to Wales, where they actually lie in my kitchen cupboard. In the afternoon we went to a spa because my legs were screaming for it and we met a local guy there. He took us for tapas later and we had octopus again and a lovely thick and a bit raw Spanish omelette. You have to like this, it is not for everybody. Like medium-rare meat (ych a fi). We also had some lovely calamari: crispy batter but very tender inside. Perfect. In case you were wondering, no, there was no threesome. Albergue La Estación As stated in the name, very close to the train station. I got lucky again and had a room for two for the same price, but there was a huge room stacked with bunk beds. The sheets were of fabric and you had a locker with a key to leave your backpack. They also kept my bag for the following day although I checked out in the morning. Budget for Day 5
Day 6: trip to FinisterreOn my last day in Santiago I had to fly late at night so instead of laying around I paid for a day-trip to Finisterre. Was it worthy? Judge by the pictures (YES). Plus, I sat down next to this lovely Puerto Rican woman, bonsai expert, and we probably annoyed the whole bus with our endless chat. That night at the airport I bumped into Gema, the girl I met the first day. No wonder we did not see each other, she finished one day later due to an injury, forcing her to take a taxi. She did not get/want the Compostela, saying she would do it again. We both walked the aiport like if we came back from war: sore and injured. My knee was worse and my big toe was as bad. Budget for Day 6
ConclusionsBe aware this was my experience in June 2017, hot and in the summer. The fact that I found it like that it does not mean it would be the same for you. Pack your bag
Personal advise
Today, I know for a fact that my big toe nail is going to come off, but I don't care. It was worth it and I would do it again and again and again. I hope this post has helped you to start preparing your trip or maybe plant a seed about doing it the future. This is an unforgettable, rewarding and unique experience. An affordable and different kind of holiday for adventure seekers and nature lovers, seasoned with the orgasmic Spanish cuisine and accompanied by the stunning Galician landscapes. I wish you all... ¡¡¡BUEN CAMINO!!!
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